even more crafty and skilful than himself.
The Polypus Octopedia (what a dreadful
name!) may be seen in calm weather, by a
curious observer, looking down a Sardinian
rock into the clear waters, stealing along
toward the open-mouthed pinna, until within
a convenient distance, when he flings, with
wonderful dexterity, a pebble he has carried
in two of his claws into the shell of the
hungry pinna. The pinna shuts or tries to
shut his trap and crush the stone; in vain,
he is wedged open, and the polypus devours
him at leisure. The Sardes, in their turn,
drag the pinna from rocks, cut off his beard,
wash it, dry it, comb it out, get about three
ounces of line silk from a rough pound, and
weave four ounces into a pair of gloves " of a
beautiful yellow brown, like the burnished
gold of certain beetles' backs." Such gloves
in the country are worth nearly five shillings
a pair.

The land, as far as nature goes, seems not
less rich than the sea. It is grievous to hear of
magnificent forests of oak, chestnut, ilex, and
cork, cut down as recklessly as though they
had been in English crown forests, and of a
large percentage lost or destroyed for want of
roads, and machinery. Beautiful corn is
grown, although not nearly to the extent that
would be possible if the country were opened,
and cultivation encouraged by a rational
system of commerce. A few years ago, finest
wheat was to be had at thirty-two shillings a
quarter, but there were then export duties,
a barbarism that we once applied to Irish
corn and cattle. The citizens of Bristol turned
out the great Edmund Burke for supporting
their repeal; so we may find excuses for the
Piedmontese king. Fowls are fourpence each,
and the best olive oil only three shillings and
sixpence a gallon. With white bread, fowls,
eggs, and oil to fry them in, no traveller
can starve. Then, there are ten different
kinds of wines, of wonderful flavour, and euphonious
names. Malvaglia, like strong white
hermitage, which, when old and very good, costs
four shillings and sixpence a gallon. Torbato,
like Manzanilla of Spain, at half that price.
Giro, like the Tinto of Alicante; also
Muscato and Monaco, of which the former is
perfumed and delicate: the latter strong.
Cannonnau, sweet for the ladies; and excellent
vino di paese at tenpence a gallon! We grieve
to add that part of the stronger wines are
exported to Genoa and France, to doctor the
weaker kinds. The grapes of the province of
Alghero make not only wine, but most delicious
raisins, by a secret process. They are not sold,
but sent as presents to select friends. Every
year, the grape-ship, into which nothing but
bushels upon bushels of raisins are admitted,
sails to Cagliari, with thousands of baskets
for friends.

After these carnal temptations, it is right
to mention that the interior forest tracts—
roads there are none—are frequented by a
sort of Robin Hood outlaws, of various
degrees of felony, who under the general title
of Fuoriciti, are, if merely guilty of
manslaughter, pitied and supported by the
peasantry, and occasionally persecuted by the
police.

Hospitality flourishes, as it does in all
thinly peopled countries, where food is cheap
and news is scarce. A traveller is introduced
from village to village, sure of hearty
welcome. The one serious drawback consists in
the ceremony of eating. The polite thing is,
to partake of every dish; and this, when there
are eight or ten, except for an English alderman
of experience, is rather difficult. Mr.
Tynedale, to whom we are indebted for many of
our plums, relates how, when weary, sleepy,
and exhausted by tasting of ten dishes, his
host exclaimed, " Well, as you have eaten
nothing, you shall have something really
nice." The door presently opened, and the
servant entered with a whole roasted wild
boar; and in spite of every effort, our
traveller was obliged to dispose of a considerable
slice before he was permitted to retire to bed
and the nightmare.

For travelling in Sardinia there is an
omnibus, running over the one road which
traverses the island from end to end, from
Cagliari to Port Torres; a most unenviable
conveyance, if we are to believe the French
gentlemen who, for photographic purposes,
passed six uncomfortable weeks there. But
then there are also to be had, capital little
horses of Arab style, fiery, docile, sure-footed,
and hardy. Surely he is unworthy to be a
traveller in wild countries, who does not prefer
a good horse to any omnibus, even though as
luxurious as those of Manchester and Glasgow.
Perhaps this race came with the
Carthaginians. At any rate, Roman emperors had
hunting studs in the island. The Sardes are
famous horsemen, in that one respect unlike
the highlanders. To sneer at a Sarde's horse
is as dangerous as to praise his wife. Horses
are so cheap that every peasant has one,
which keeps itself, running loose in the woods
and wild lands. The best are trained to
amble with each pair of fore and hind feet
following at the same time, thus producing a
most easy smooth motion. An Italian writer
declares that travelling on horseback in
Sardinia is one of the most agreeable things in
the world — "I prefer it to going in a boat
with the wind astern." A few thus educated
would be invaluable for stout ladies or aldermen
requiring exercise. Mr. Tynedale paid
ten shillings and sixpence a day for three
horses and a man, who found the animals and
fed them himself. One of these horses was to
carry baggage.

Near the town of Sassara are to be found
gardens rich in fruit, flowers and shrubs; in
one, our traveller saw a myrtle tree, the stem
of which, at some height from the ground,
was fifty-six inches in circumference; the
branches, extending twenty-six feet, rested
on orange trees. The fruit trees were in full